“En Route to Adventure” “Oh let the sun beat down upon my face, stars to fill my dream. I am a traveller of both time and space…” Kashmir, by Led Zeppelin.
For Spring, Veronica Etro gathers a gang of eclectic travellers, a group of free-wheeling, soulful women who dauntlessly explore the most adventurous corners of the world. Fiercely independent with layers of technicolor eccentricity and relaxed sportswear, they are as comfortable in a scorching stretch of the Sahara desert as they are trekking through an urban metropolis. The collection pays tribute to Etro’s own heritage, emboding its own tradition and that of different cultures. And yet, innovation bubbles under every surface, creating a balance between romanticism and the practical. The colours of this tribe are writ in a new pop language. Tribal embroideries and ethnic patterns are reinvented in hot pink, fluorescent yellow, flag green or in graphic black and white stripes. Etro’s classic paisley print is given a psychedelic twist in blown up, acid colours. Bold stripes cut into the traditional paisley, creating a strong, sporty graphic and re-setting a modernist mood. Old book prints and ancient jewelry swirl across silks lending the air of travel lust. The revival of the kaftan, cut either maxi short or in maxi long versions, provides the collection with its bohemian heart. Oversized in thick jacquards and silk faille with bold tribal striping, the kaftans are worn with sweeping duster coats or brocade jackets with extra long sleeves ruched up the arms. Berber-style capes with hoods and metal clasps add to the wanderlust mood, while motorcycle pants, jacquard patchwork running shorts, stretch wool jog bras, and silk jumpsuits worn rolled down and tied at the waist, give the collection its sporty-service bent. Materials this season, from rich brocades to filmy nylon, reflect the collection’s balance between heritage and utilitarian codes. Luxurious striped ponchos are crafted from jacquards or silk linen. Rough silk knit capes with uneven hems are worn like shawls over the shoulder. Silk dresses and shirts are showered in tassels. The accessories are intended to keep this woman fully self-functioning while en route to adventure. Flat, saddle bag-shaped survival kits come loaded with patterned sketch books, pencils and flasks. Double-flap, soft deerskin bags feature ornately embroidered or printed fronts. Woven leather braided belts, thick-heeled buckle sandals or flat, sober gaucho boots. Piles of chunky metal bracelets and rings, or ceramic pendant necklaces add a glimmer of handcrafted light.